More than a year in Scotland

Somehow a year has passed since the massive Samskip container was parked outside our flat and 4 men, 2 grandparents, one baby and I emptied it in the space of about 10 minutes. Throughout, the traffic warden, a great bear-like man, prowled about and gave warnings of hefty fines.

Since then we've missed two eruptions, got married, Hazel learnt to crawl, sleep through the night (phew), turned one, then started walking two weeks later when staying with her Scottish grandparents. She learnt to climb, to dance, and now is perfecting talking  (salsa, salsa, more, more, tango, tango..). Óli has started writing mobile phone apps and I am addicted to spinning his (and H's) game hedgehog around his phone screen. I am writing papers and doing some teaching and enjoying being back around some of my old friends, the old building where I studied before and the new library which is all fancy and shiny and a wonderfully quiet place to hide and work. We have been lucky enough to meet some lovely new friends and to get back in touch with old ones. We miss Icelandic friends, friends and family in Iceland and the wonderful folk sessions. We are growing plants - but outside, not on our windowsill and are already munching on the fruits of our seed sewing. As much as possible on sunny days like today we live in the little garden and Hazel is trying her best to cuddle all the local cats (and today a spider). All the cats and the spider have so far resisted her charms. I think perhaps chanting "meeow, meeow, meeow (mjá, mjá, mjá) " and running at high speed with arms outstretched towards them doesn't help.

Things that go bump in the night!

From ghoulies and ghosties
And long-leggedy beasties
And things that go bump in the night,
Good Lord, deliver us!

Or not..

Reykjanes earthquakes. Image from www.mbl.is, originally from www.vedur.is.

Reykjanes and the Reykjavík area got a good shaking this weekend. Our visitor, K, and I were just having a quite little natter and then this weird thundery feeling passed through the living room from one corner to the other .. and then again .. twice we were shaken and it was all very exciting. Óli, practising the fiddle in the other room and stomping around completely missed it! A day later we were all having a wee natter, a nice cup of tea and a sit down when we were treated to more of the same, though not travelling across the room this time. There is clearly something wrong with me because my instinct was to get all excited, check out www.vedur.is and see how big it had been and where the epicentre was, and think about whether it might mean an eruption could be on its way .. and Óli much more sensibly stood up and headed to the door.

So, of course, since then we´ve been waking in the night imaging rumblings and shudderings and saying "was that another earthquake?" and convincing ourselves that there were a bunch more of them during the few hours of darkness. Mostly though they must have been in our imagination - all wishful thinking.

So, it turns out there were a series of earthquakes near Grindavík, near The Blue Lagoon, ranging from very small up to 4.7 on the Richter Scale. They moved north-eastwards a bit with time and have now mostly died out. Curiously the first biggish one that we felt came a year to the day after the 6.2 South Iceland earthquake of May 2008 and on the day of an earthquake workshop held at the University. I imagine they had a great big Hammer-of-Eden-esque earthquake generator with them .. all the better for ensuring another year of research funding! Only joking dear colleagues. But, funny coincidence.

Nobody was killed, nobody was hurt, no buildings were damaged. So all okay. I imagine it was quite scary being in Grindavík where more of the earthquakes must have been felt and a power cut accompanied the largest event.

Along with shudders and shakes I am being kept awake by the dancing bump creature .. things that go bump in the night! Hurrumph. At least, this probably means all is well with baby-to-be.

Thankfully, there have been no sightings of ghoulies, ghosties or long-leggedy beasties.

Happy New Year!

Happy New Year to you all. Actually.. Happy Hallowe´en, Happy Yule, Happy Christmas, Happy New Year, Happy Burns´Night etc.. It has been some time since I wrote here.

Much has gone on here in the last 6 months or so.. for us.. work and exciting new projects, trips to Geneva and to Paris, a ceilidh, a Burns Supper, a couple of friends have had babies, almost the entire family descended on Reykjavík for Christmas and New Year (we missed Sigga, Barbara, Jane and Grandad though)... and for Iceland so much has happened .. bank crises, employment crises, protests (very non-Icelandic but folk are gradually getting the hang of it), soaring debt for the country and individuals with terrifying mortgages and loans (either in foreign currency or in kronur but with the capital linked to inflation), and most recently a fall of one government and the rise (hopefully) of another with quite different ideas (hopefully) and an election I can´t vote in (but hopefully many more people than normal will vote) in just a few months. Anyway, I will not comment much on the politics / crisis since really I have no expertise in economics or politics and we are both lucky to still be in jobs and have no terrifying loans .. however, if you want to read more about these things, and the changes happening in Iceland, in English with intelligent discussion have a look at Alda´s wonderful Iceland Weather Report.

After a delightfully blunt reminder by Christmas card I have decided to make time again for some Letters from Iceland. I think that this is no longer a little adventure north that became a bit longer but more like tales from my second home. I still dream of heading back to Scotland (as snow covers everything here I am thinking of snowdrops in the garden at home, though I hear there has been plenty snow to go around back home too) or moving to another country again but, I think, at least while we still have our jobs, we´ll be here .. a bit longer anyway. Lets hope that kreppa (depression / recession) means that it is cheaper for you all to visit - and realise that despite what you may read on foreign news websites protests and "riots" in Iceland could pass for "carnivals" in other countries so there is absolutely no threat to tourists; no offense meant to the protesters of course, I think they´re doing a great job!

Southeast Iceland: Fog patches. Moderate or good.

Attention All Shipping, by Charlie Connelly

Sometimes it is hard to fall asleep as the days get longer and brighter and you are tucked up in bed, the curtains drawn, the blackout blind pulled down and your head under the covers but yet the light still intrudes. I am joyously welcoming the spring but am already recalling that this change in seasons and increased light also means that the time for sleep is over and the time for all night wakefulness, parties if you can summon the energy and lying awake at 3am, not really feeling too tired, thinking about what to do tomorrow, what you did today, fond memories of the past or occasional regrets and what ifs, is here.

Last Friday in the pub I was reminded, as we Brits met around 10 at night, a good 3 hours prior to the downtown migration of the locals and the fully integrated, of what I had always thought of as a very British tradition. And now I feel it might have other uses. The Shipping Forecast.. for years I wondered why fog and showers were moderate to good. I always hated stepping out of the back door (where I am from the front door never was opened, it was just decorative) and getting soaked, and to this day I hate to get a wet face in cold northern rain.

Now as I remember and listen to the forecast on the internet (my link to BBC radio 4) I feel comforted, and even more comfortable when the conversation reveals that Iceland has it too .. or at least a coastal forecast.. Veðurfregnir. I always thought it was some British institution, even after reading "Attention All Shipping" - recommended. "Sitting at home listening to the shipping forecast can be a cosily reassuring experience. There's no danger of a westerly gale eight, veering southwesterly increasing nine later (visibility poor) gusting through your average suburban living room, blowing the Sunday papers all over the place and startling the cat." (Charlie Connelly). I don´t know why I stuck with that idea that it was British after all I am no great lover of all things British (though sausage and mash has grown on me since leaving home soil). I think it always sounded so quaint that it had to be as British as cream tea or eggs with soldiers (I bet someone comes along and tells me that is American) to a land-based creature like me.

Ó tells me that it is not as it used to be; it used to sound much more sad, and I wonder if this is true of the British Shipping Forecast. The again, perhaps it was being woken at 5am to go out to sea that put a melancholy twist to the tone of that beautiful, gently meditative poetry.

So now I think I might have found my cure for summer sleeplessness and resultant nostalgia. What could be more relaxing than falling asleep to the shipping forecast? I can´t use the Icelandic one.. it is a rare example of gently, slowly spoken Icelandic which I might stand a chance of understanding and it might keep me thinking. For now I´ll stick with North Utsire South Utsire, Dogger, Fisher and I´ll lend a thought to where I am falling asleep when they reach Viking. Maybe I should look for those old recordings, monotone would be even better for sleep. How many sailors drifted off before their sector was reached? Have a listen, aren´t they good, even if a little modernised and jaunty?

Southwest Iceland: West 1. Moderate. Occasional showers. Good. But still sleepy.

Landmannalaugur and Landmannaleið piccies

First steps in North America

I am back in Iceland now. It is a true summer here with temperatures almost reaching 20 C and blue skies for the last week. I have worn my newly acquired summer dress bought to survive Montreal temperatures and I have sat by the beach and watched the warm waters from Öskjuhlíð trickle into Nauthólsvík making a small sun, sea and pale sand oasis along these normally dark, chilly northern shores.

Nauthólsvík sand castle, made September 2006.
The sand is just a touch too shelly for great architectural feats.

I have returned also with lots of thoughts and ideas stemming from my trip to North America. I had expected something rather different. I was nervous of those big cities I planned to visit. I thought I might get lost or maybe I´d feel in danger walking through streets alone. I certainly didn´t expect to feel at home.

At home in a bookshop on Commercial Drive, Vancouver

The best things .. I didn´t feel like a foreigner, particularly in Montreal; seeing chipmunks and blue jays; talking to people I´d heard about and finding that they are really decent people; feeling the sun on my skin and watching the world go by from the shade of a tree or a balcony with a book in my hand; looking an old friend in the eyes. The worst things .. wearing woollen trousers at 30 degrees C; trying to be a tourist and see the highlights of Vancouver in one day; trying to stay in touch with home with a 7 hour time difference.

Mt. Rainier snowman, mid June.

Some spell has been cast over me that has opened my eyes to what I like about different lifestyles. It is nice to have clarity and a different perspective. The life of a city, the bustle, the freedom of not needing a car and the friendliness of strangers. I don´t know if this can be achieved in Iceland. Outside a 10 minute walking zone of the centre of Reykjavík you are in the suburbs already because it is a city serving a pretty small population, and is definitely car-dominated. No corner shops, no high frequency public transport. No general openness to strangers. In general it can take time to feel the friendliness of Icelanders though it is there, just gradually revealed and true and long-lasting once found.

I am also re-inspired about work. I met some interesting people and saw some interesting sand and gravel! Avalanches deposits and mud flows. It is funny that sediment can create such enthusiasm in me but since it does I take this to assume I´m not in the wrong field of work. Nice news.

Osceola mudflow deposits.. and trees. A massive mid-Holocene lahar. Much more about the Osceola mudflow on the US Geological Survey site.

So, last week I started something new at work. I start working with others more, I start thinking about a project that is less specific than jökulhlaups / glacier floods. I start writing again.

All colours .. ert þú þessi Erlendur?

The International Women´s Rainbow Choir

Bellydancers from Kramhúsið - "Shams el amar": Fífí, Margrét and Solheir

Ghanan dance, picture from Morgunblaðið

This is a weekend of festivals .. the festival of the sea for sailor´s day at all ports, particularly in Reykjavík, bright days festival in Hafnarfjörður and today the Festival of Nations or Þjóðahátið in Hafnarfjörður, with participants from more than 40 countries. We Scots were there and had a popular stall .. we were giving away samples of whisky, fruit cake and cups of tea .. sang some Scottish songs and we went for a record breaking attempt at the longest strip the willow in Iceland .. 24 brave participants from Ghana, Germany, England, Japan, Iceland, Scotland, Hungary and Bulgaria .. perhaps more .. joined in and span and span and span across the hall. Pretty amazing for a two minute lesson beforehand and we are fairly sure that this may be the longest Orcadian Strip the Willow in Iceland so far and most certainly must be the most international Strip the Willow in Iceland! Next year we´ll aim for even more. Congratulations and thank you to all who joined in!

Whisky sampling!

The best bit for me was seeing people and pictures from countries I knew nothing about - Bulgaria, Lithuania and Ghana particularly. And wow, Ghanans really love shortbread! The dancing was also so fun .. so many types of bellydancing, beautiful elegant Thai dancing and Carlos´ infectious high-spirited salsa. So much colour .. proud to be a foreigner .. and delighted to meet Icelanders with open eyes to the world! Takk fyrir daginn!

More pictures can be seen on the Bulgarian Community's (BG Islandia) web album.

Big day for Iceland

Last night we sat watching elections all night. First the Eurovision Song Contest which Iceland was knocked out of quite unjustly because of neighbourly voting in eastern Europe and a limited Scandinavian population to back up a pretty good attempt, by Eurovision standards, by Eiríkur Hauksson. Perhaps not being a beautiful blond model didn't help either. Still, being knocked out before the final didn´t stop folk taking everything seriously and being outrageously irritated by the unfair, political voting. This year west versus east Europe it seems. It didn´t help pointing out that it has always been like that. Also didn´t stop Iceland voting for Sweden and Finland at 10 and 12 points.

Then, to my horror, before the winner was announced, just seconds before the finale and replay of the winning song, the TV cut to watch the other big event of the day.. watching the ballot results coming from across Iceland. For yesterday was the Icelandic parliamentary elections that threatened at least to be a pretty close run. In the end the two parties in the ruling coalition were voted back in, but that wasn´t too clear until around 4am.

Of course I couldn't vote for the politicians but it was pointed out to me to soothe the loss that I had one big advantage over everyone here .. I could still put my political ideas into practise by voting twice for the Eurovision, once with my Icelandic mobile and once with my British one.

A suitable follow up to Lordi? Photo by Peter Stubbs

This all reminded me of the recent elections in Scotland. I couldn't vote there either because it was deemed not to be a national election despite being my nation. I had some lively conversations in Edinburgh and was brought close to tears at the unusual levels of hope and community strength in the city. Perhaps for once we Scots were able to believe that there could be change and hope for the country, that we could make a difference and be proud. For how can you proudly hold your head up to the world if you have no power to make decisions for your own country? Keep harking back to the great Scots of old and those who went away from Scotland and did brave and exceptional things abroad? Or am I just getting all Sean Connery-like and getting more pro-Scots than any Scot still living at home? Not sure I want that to happen. Or is it just more noticeable to me now that a small country can do well as an independent nation?

If an independent Scotland were entered into the Eurovison which political connections would they be trying to maintain through the media of drag acts and sparkles? Well, apparently there was a Scot there, singing for Montenegro, who´s ancestor "William Faddy, .. came through Montenegro on the Crusades and fell in love with a local girl and decided to stay". He hoped that would help his song win Scottish support. Viewed that way, the Norwegians, Danes and Irish should have voted to keep Iceland in the contest and perhaps Iceland would have won Eurovision.. just like they should have done of course!

Sun and books

The sun is shining today in Reykjavík. It shone through much of the night last night too. It always takes me a little while to get into the long daylight hours, though I look forward to it greatly. To start with it just makes me tired, but happy. From my office I can see two children bouncing high into the air on a trampoline in their garden. The world around is getting greener, spring has sprung. Perhaps winter will jump back in for a finale in the next month.. probably tying in with my planned first fieldwork trip of the summer.

Well, it´s not really the weather for sitting inside reading and it is probably a little too cool for sitting outside reading, but it is a good time to venture out of the house and perhaps meet some new people and thinking about books for rainy days. I thought some weeks ago that it would be good to swap books in person in Iceland as a way of recycling books and perhaps meeting new people. I still think it´s a good idea but any complex signing-up book swapping community based on the internet just might not work. So, I am proposing a once a month gathering in Kaffi Mokka of anyone who wants to swap books in whatever language. If like some you have rooms and rooms of books grab a random few, stuff them in your bag and set off downtown. If you´re in or around Reykjavík even just for a visit bring a book you have read or are tired off, have a coffee, yummy hot chocolate or even better Belgian waffle and leave with some new reading material for a rainy day or a long bus trip. Hope to see you there.

Oh, how we ceilidhed!

Circling dancers in Linlithgow

Today I held my first ceilidh class in Reykjavík. I enjoyed it, I hope others did.

Every time I nip back to Scotland I try to fit a ceilidh in. Actually I bend backwards, sideways and spin round about to make one fit in. This time we fared outside Edinburgh in search of the best ceilidh to be had and we definitely found it. The Linlithgow Rugby Club Ceilidh with Last Tram Tae Auchenshuggle. We shuggled, we hopped and we both learnt some new dances. I really liked the Siege of Venice! And the Cumberland Square Eight .. aka the Basket Dance. We even showed off with a little tango.

A basket performed by Magnus and friends to Last Tram.
One for Keith!

Our feet were still hurting days after and Óli´s arm was bruised for days due to the rough handling he got being spun by the ladies! Still, thats a mark (literally) of a good night with lots of dancing.

Sisilly's tree

Tree of Life by Welsh artist Jen Delyth

A'm hame noo. Back wi the blether o' the seagulls o'er the ruiftops an' gae soft sleepy whirl o' the cushie doos in the trees. Thae soonds mak a lassie feel that this is kinda hame. Guid tae be hame!

But hame and heim .. they are blending, all becoming one. And thats nice. I like also that to the untrained eye the words for home and the world are so similar in Icelandic .. heim, heimur.

I saw sisilly's tree yesterday and I've been thinking of it this morning. Roots and branches .. perhaps you send a branch out into the world to taste the air in another place and it will become another root. But the world can feel small these days and we can stretch about and keep roots all over so that wherever you go back to you are going back home.